More Checker plate

[tasmoken]

Aussie I am interested to know what brand, and cost is your steering wheel if possible?

[Samm]

Aussie I am interested to know what brand, and cost is your steering wheel if possible?

Looks kinda like my SAAS one, mine cost about $120 from auto one i think.

[Casper]

AC,

Love the job on the washer bottle! you've taken CP into an art-form!

Keep it up, I so want to see what's next!

Casper

[Darth Moke]

I'm still waiting to see those speaker covers......





Darth

[aussieclown]

Well Today as part of Aussie Day, I received a gift from the bloke that made my alloy radiator,

A alloy header tank to match, He was impressed with the radiator that he thought the standard header tank looked crappy and did not enhance the radiator,

So he once again got his apprentice to make him one.





Next week end I should be able to post another project and better pictures as these were taken with my phone

[suspend6]

Mate,

I am now having trouble comprehending how much chequerplate (correct spelling , I believe) you have got happening on your moke. Obviously, originality for you is not an option !

Cheers, Sus

[THE STIG]

Looks tops AC !!

[Casper]

 He did a good job fabricating the tank, I can't wait too see whats' next 

Casper

[suspend6]

How about the windscreen ?
Sus

[aussieclown]

I have a few ideas/ Projects on the boards. 

The current project is a small one as well as I am still learning how to manipulate, cut and weld before the main event.

I am no going to tell until each project is complete as some as I have tried, ended up as dismal failures such as an checker plate rocker cover. I just could not get the round bits right, might attempt again in later as I was given a good trick to try to get all bend even.

As far as origionality is concerned, my moke is called Moggy" for a very goods reason, It has all sorts of bits and pieces on her, She basically is a pound test, trey, buy case, every good idea and concept gets build and tested etc etc before the main event such as the steering column cover.  The original switches were out of some jap car, then they burned out and a old set of landrovers one appeared, the original cover was a cut down 2 liter apple juice bottle that I covered, that lasted for 4 years. I made a very dodge cover for the landrover one, hence the final design as it stands. Timming was pureley by accident when the ignition totally disintergrated itself.

My main concern is finishing the small projects and to learn more before the main event, which will enhance everything and it is not a checker plate bonnett ( thought did cross my mind though) The biggest problem I have is time, just not enough of it.

AC

[Darth Moke]

How about a full moke body

[suspend6]

AC,

I was reading Roy Scott's restoration book today. Man, what a mammoth job he undertook, and achieved some amazing results.  (I will post a full review later, when finished reading)

Interestingly, he bought a moke that had a few panels covered in checkerplate. On removing the CP, there was chronic rust. He seemed to think it was due to moisture collecting between the two metal surfaces. But there could be two options here .. 1) Checkerplate covered existing rust, 2) Checkerplate caused the rust.

Lifted any of your panels lately ?

Cheers, Sus

[aussieclown]

How about a full moke body

The thought has entered my mind, big problem is the checker plate I am getting for nothing is all off cuts, bit hard to justify full sheets as off cuts.

With the steering wheel, sorry I did not reply earlier , as silly me forgot to reply, t is a SAAS I bought from supercrap years ago. It has a standard boss kit with a custon checker plate centre,, Basically use the standard centre and made a CP plate to bolt on

Sus,
I have opened my side panels and lifted other panels over the years. What I have found is that I have not had any additional rust. My CP is bolted on and as such as the panels move due to heat etc etc they can move. As we all know, Alloy expands and contracts at an different rate to metal, CP heats up rather quickly.

I tend to think it would be a combination of both, I do not use CP to cover rust. underneath all my CP is fully painted sufaces not old rust etc etc

I have found that if you glue CP on, the dust and dirt combined with moisture will build up around the glue and as the vehicle moves due to heat and flexing, this causes the dirt to basically grind into the paint, causing rust, also the glue will trap moisture and this will enhance the deterioration process..

By glueing the CP on, it does not alloy for circulation in between the CP and the body. By bolting the CP on, air can get in there to dry things out.  Also when I wash moggy, I wash her inside and out paying particular attention to getrting the water under the CP panels. I have never seen any rust weeping from under any of my panels. The side panels that are on the top of the side boxes are held by two bolts. On the passenger side, one of the bolts is part for securing the fuel tank. this allow the CP to move as it will do, by using many bolts, this restricts the expansion of CP hence adding to the problem

When I first go moggy, my side boxes covers were basically weeping rust due to body flex, since I put the CP on, the rusting has stopped. Also about a year ago, I put rust protection on Moggy and this has worked

img]http://www.moke.com.au/Forum/gallery/658_03_08_08_8_06_16.jpg[/img]

AC

[Darth Moke]

By glueing the CP on, it does not alloy for circulation

Watch out, you starting to think alloy !!



 

Darth

[aussieclown]

Well Today I had a good productive day, SWMBO and little Miss are away and as such the cat has played.

The whole day was very productive, the only negative is that I was sweating similar to a fat chick outside Mc Donalds.

Firstly, I finished the radiator shrould, I can thank Matt for two things, Firstly you need one to prevent fingers getting caught, secondly due to an earlier post, I bought a themo fan. The Fan and should took about two hours total Thanks to Matt post earlier, I have mine on a manual switch and to test how effective it was, I ran the moke at about 3500 RPM, The temperature got hot pretty quick. I switched the fan on and in about 7 minutes the temperature commenced to drop down to a normal temp. Then at idle, I had the fan off, then I turned it on, once again after a few minutes, the temp dropped a bit. You can really feel the additional hot air being sucked out.


Shroud  fitted, checker plate of course,




Love the glare ??

Secondly, I made a checker plate Air Filter box. For the purest of the checker plate art, the inner bit the makes the hole that goes around the SU is impossible to bend using my butcher skills, hence I cut the old plastic one in bits and used the inners to make the hole wall and secondly to seat the air filter and the air intake into the SU port.

This took about 6 hours to design and make with 3 proto types. Once I fitted it all together, I realised that the standard bolts that hold the air filter on look crap, hence tonight on the lathe, I will be making my own custom ones.





The three projects. in one picture.

Well that is basically the engine bay completed with checker plate, untill I think of something else,

I think I am ready to tackle the main event.

Hopefully It will be done before Mokefest.

AC