Author Topic: Engine fit for the resto MMR do ya stuff!  (Read 166851 times)

Offline Ian

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Engine fit for the resto MMR do ya stuff!
« on: May 28, 2007, 06:24:17 PM »
Thought since I'm new I'd start to show you all what I've been up to  :lol:




What do you think?

Like the "wide core" rad  :roll:

Ian ;D
« Last Edit: March 25, 2011, 08:09:05 PM by Ian »
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Tim

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2007, 07:04:21 PM »
Interesting, whats the roof, it looks like a big baking dish?

Tim
1977 Moke Californian
1961 Morris Mini Traveller

Driving a Moke with a hardtop is like having a shower in a raincoat.

Offline Ian

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2007, 07:10:12 PM »
Its the satelite system for the GPS  :lol:
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Ian

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2007, 07:16:01 PM »
Before a clean  :shock:



On the trailer, as you can see the wide core has gone  :shock:



« Last Edit: May 05, 2008, 07:27:36 AM by Ian »
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Siddersc

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2007, 07:32:18 PM »
Hi Ian, looks like you have plenty to do on your moke, but the engine bay looks heaps better after the clean, if only it was all that easy :lol:
I am also restoring my export Moke and would like to do a work in progress like you, but am unsure how to upload pictures so they appear on the actual thread, could you tell me how to do it?? :? , sorry to throw you off subject. :wink:
Sid

1971 export resto

Offline Ian

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2007, 07:40:48 PM »
simple!

First of all you will need a photp hosting site (I use a Lambretta one)
Simply click on there site and go to "browse" this will in turn take you to the relevent document on your computer.
Select the photo and click up load.
At the bottom of the picture you will have a URL number copy and paste this in to the thread between these  

Make sure there are no spaces

Hey presto your photo  :lol:
« Last Edit: May 05, 2008, 07:28:05 AM by Ian »
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Siddersc

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2007, 08:09:31 PM »
Thanks for that Ian, I think I have it now, I will start my own thread soon,
Keep up the good work and good luck with your Moke. :)
Sid

1971 export resto

Offline Andrew

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2007, 04:58:05 AM »
Let the fun begin!           Are you doing a full strip and rebuild?
Andrew Geue
Sunshine Coast
Queensland.

998, 1980 Moke

May you have wind in your hair and your wheels on the ground.

Offline Ian

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2007, 05:38:30 AM »
Quote from: Andrew
Let the fun begin!           Are you doing a full strip and rebuild?

Am I  :lol:

The only way to go.




« Last Edit: May 05, 2008, 07:29:35 AM by Ian »
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Tim

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2007, 12:43:07 PM »
Getting the front panel right is probably the hardest bit with a bent moke. It needs to look nice and flat, but has all sorts of complicated pressings that make it difficult.

I reckon you have four choices, listed in order of how good the final finish will be relative to cost.

1) spend ages with a hammer and dolly carefully trying to get the whole lot looking right.
2) Get the front nice and flat and cut out the grille and replace with the one from a later model
3) Get a new front from the UK
4) Pay an expert panel beater to get it right.

Tim
1977 Moke Californian
1961 Morris Mini Traveller

Driving a Moke with a hardtop is like having a shower in a raincoat.

Offline rogg

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2007, 01:41:04 PM »
Quote from: "Tim"

3) Get a new front from the UK



I have the same problem, the font is far from straight, where would I find a new front? and what sort of costs are we looking at?

Offline Tim

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2007, 02:07:35 PM »
Three places in the UK that I can think of, I don't know if there's anyone locally that has real pressings, but there's more than likely someone that can fold up a flat one for you, it wouldn't be exactly right though.
 
Try each of these three links and see what they reckon: Run-amoke, M Parts or the Moke Club.

Tim
1977 Moke Californian
1961 Morris Mini Traveller

Driving a Moke with a hardtop is like having a shower in a raincoat.

Offline Andrew

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2007, 04:31:44 PM »
My front was not straight - I got some 12mm x 12mm x 1.2? Angle and reinforced the back of the area with several strips. The strips were "spot welded" every 75mm. It was all ground back and a lick of bog to smooth it all off. The result came up well.
Andrew Geue
Sunshine Coast
Queensland.

998, 1980 Moke

May you have wind in your hair and your wheels on the ground.

Offline Ian

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2007, 06:59:10 PM »
Or you could buy a 2nd hand pannel with the seperate grill included for $125 :lol:  Then get a grinder and grind the welds off and reweld the new 2nd hand one in, or am I talking utter crap  :roll:
Ian
Victoria Point
Brisbane
Qld

74 Moke - modified BMW K1100 cylinder head, 1330cc thick flange (ex automatic), A+ crank & Rods lightened and balanced, 4 pin diff, intercooled Turbo. Baboon brake conversion, uprated steering/suspension,

HSV Hunter!!!!!!!!!!!

Offline Tim

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Ian - Start of my restoration
« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2007, 07:09:14 PM »
Quote from: "Ian"
Or you could buy a 2nd hand pannel with the seperate grill included for $125 :lol:  Then get a grinder and grind the welds off and reweld the new 2nd hand one in, or am I talking utter crap  :roll:


Yeah, thats what you do. Generally you don't grind the welds off, they're spotwelds so you drill them out, preferably using a spot weld cutter, and unstitch the panels. You have to do that to get the original front off anyway, but it depends on being able to find a straight front to cut off a rusty or crashed Moke.

Spotweld Cutter


Tim
1977 Moke Californian
1961 Morris Mini Traveller

Driving a Moke with a hardtop is like having a shower in a raincoat.